Aioli

Aioli is a thick, pale sauce of garlic and olive oil. In its oldest form, from Provence and Catalonia, it is only garlic, salt and oil pounded together in a mortar until they hold as a paste. Most modern recipes add egg yolk, which makes it much easier and turns it into a strong garlic mayonnaise.

How to do it

1. Crush 2 to 4 garlic cloves with a pinch of salt into a smooth paste. A mortar and pestle works best.
2. Stir in 1 egg yolk at room temperature and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice.
3. Add 200 ml (about 3/4 cup) of oil a few drops at a time, whisking all the time.
4. Once the sauce thickens and holds, add the rest of the oil in a thin stream.
5. Season with salt and more lemon. Loosen with a teaspoon of water if it gets too stiff.

Why it works

Oil and water do not mix on their own. The lecithin in egg yolk and the fine particles of crushed garlic coat tiny oil droplets and keep them apart in the watery lemon juice. That is an emulsion. Adding oil slowly at the start gives the droplets time to form.

How to use it

Serve aioli with fish soups, roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables, boiled eggs, fried seafood and sandwiches. In Provence a dish called le grand aïoli is a platter of poached cod, vegetables and eggs served around a bowl of it.

How to store it

Homemade aioli with raw egg yolk should be kept in the fridge and eaten within 2 to 3 days. Use pasteurized eggs if you serve it to pregnant people, young children, older adults or anyone with a weak immune system.

Common mistakes

• Pouring the oil too fast at the start, which makes the sauce split.
• Using only strong extra virgin olive oil. It can turn bitter when whisked hard. Mix it half and half with a mild oil.
• Using cold eggs straight from the fridge, which emulsify less easily.
• Calling any flavored mayonnaise aioli. Without garlic, it is not.