Braise

To braise is to cook food slowly in a covered pot with a small amount of liquid, usually after browning it. The liquid comes partway up the food, not over it, so the top cooks in steam and the bottom simmers. Braising turns tough, sinewy cuts such as short ribs, beef chuck, lamb shanks and pork shoulder soft and moist. Vegetables such as fennel, leeks and cabbage are braised too.

How to do it

1. Pat the meat dry and season it. Sear it in a heavy pot over medium-high heat until browned on all sides, then take it out.
2. Lower the heat and soften onions, carrots, garlic or other aromatics in the fat.
3. Add wine or stock and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom.
4. Put the meat back. Add liquid until it comes a third to halfway up the meat.
5. Bring it to a gentle simmer, cover, and move it to an oven at 150 to 165°C (300 to 325°F). A low oven gives steadier heat than the stove.
6. Cook until tender, usually 2 to 4 hours for large cuts. Turn the meat once or twice.
7. Skim off the fat and reduce the liquid on the stove if you want a thicker sauce.

How to tell it is done

The meat is fork-tender: a fork slides in and twists with almost no resistance, and the meat pulls apart. If it still feels firm or springy, it needs more time, not less.

Why it works

Tough cuts have a lot of collagen. Long, moist heat around 80 to 95°C (175 to 200°F) inside the meat melts it into gelatin, which makes the meat tender and gives the sauce body. The lid traps steam, so the food does not dry out.

Common mistakes

• Too much liquid. That is a stew or a boil, and the sauce tastes thin.
• Boiling instead of simmering. Hard bubbling dries and toughens the meat.
• Using lean, tender cuts. Loin and breast dry out. Pick cuts made for long cooking.
• Skipping the sear. The dish lacks depth.
• A loose lid. Liquid evaporates and the pot can run dry. A heavy Dutch oven with a tight lid is ideal.

In recipes

Braises often taste better the next day. Cool, chill overnight, lift off the set fat, and reheat gently.