Char

To char is to cook food over very high, direct heat until patches of the surface turn black. A little charring adds a bitter, smoky edge that balances sweet vegetables and rich meat. It is different from burning: you char the outside in spots and stop before the whole surface is black and acrid. Recipes often char peppers, chiles, corn, onions, tomatoes, eggplant and the edges of grilled meat.

How to do it

On a gas flame:

1. Set a whole pepper or chile straight on the burner over high heat.
2. Turn it with tongs every minute or so until the skin is black and blistered all over, 5 to 8 minutes.
3. To peel, put it in a covered bowl for 10 minutes. The steam loosens the skin, which then rubs off.

In a pan, on a grill, or under a broiler:

1. Heat a dry cast iron pan, a grill or the broiler (grill in the UK) until very hot.
2. Add the food in one layer with a light coat of oil, or none for skins you will peel.
3. Leave it alone so dark spots can form, then turn it.

How to tell it is done

For vegetables you will peel, the skin should be black and puffed over most of the surface while the flesh is soft. For food you will eat with the char, aim for dark brown to black spots on 10 to 30 percent of the surface, with the rest browned.

How to use it

• Charred peppers and tomatoes go into salsas and sauces such as romesco.
• Charred onions give stock and broth color and depth.
• Charred eggplant, cooked whole until it collapses, is the base of smoky dips.
• Corn charred on the cob gets sweet and nutty.

Common mistakes

• Moving the food too often. Contact time builds the spots.
• Peeling and then rinsing. Water washes away the smoky flavor. Wipe off stray skin instead.
• Charring everything. Too much black tastes harsh and covers the food. Stop at spots.
• Confusing it with blackening, which browns a spice crust and does not char the food itself.