Dashi

Dashi is the basic stock of Japanese cooking. The most common kind, awase dashi, is made by steeping kombu, a dried kelp, and bonito flakes, shavings of dried, smoked fish, in hot water. It is clear, light and full of savory umami flavor. It is the base of miso soup, noodle broths, simmered dishes and dipping sauces.

How to do it

For about 1 liter (4 cups):

1. Wipe a 10 g piece of kombu, about 10 by 10 cm (4 by 4 inches), with a damp cloth. Do not wash off the white powder; it carries flavor.
2. Soak it in 1 liter (4 cups) of cold water for 30 minutes, or up to overnight in the fridge.
3. Heat slowly. Take out the kombu just before the water boils.
4. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat and add 15 to 20 g (about 2 loosely packed cups) of bonito flakes.
5. Let them steep for 2 to 3 minutes, until they sink.
6. Strain through a fine sieve or cloth without pressing.

Why it works

Kombu is rich in glutamate and bonito flakes in inosinate. Together these two compounds taste much more savory than either does alone, which is why dashi tastes full even though it is light.

Substitutes

• For a vegan dashi, soak kombu with dried shiitake mushrooms.
• Instant dashi granules or packets are common and work in most home recipes.
• A light chicken stock can stand in, but the flavor will be different.

How to store it

Keep dashi in the fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze it for up to 1 month. The used kombu and bonito can be simmered again for a weaker second dashi, niban dashi, for stews.

Common mistakes

• Boiling the kombu, which makes the dashi slimy and bitter.
• Squeezing the bonito flakes when straining, which clouds the stock and adds a fishy taste.
• Steeping the bonito too long.