Fumet

Fumet is a light, flavorful fish stock made from the bones and heads of mild white fish, simmered briefly with white wine, vegetables and herbs. Unlike meat stock, it cooks for only 20 to 30 minutes. It is the base of fish soups, seafood risotto and fish velouté.

How to do it

1. Use about 1 kg (2 pounds) of bones and heads from lean white fish such as sole, turbot, halibut or cod. Remove the gills and any blood, then rinse well in cold water.
2. In a wide pot, sweat a sliced onion, a leek and a celery stalk in butter for a few minutes without browning.
3. Add the bones and cook them for 2 to 3 minutes, turning, until they turn opaque.
4. Pour in 250 ml (1 cup) of dry white wine and let it bubble for a minute.
5. Add cold water just to cover, about 1.5 liters (6 cups), plus parsley stems, a bay leaf and a few peppercorns.
6. Bring to a gentle simmer, skim, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes.
7. Strain through a fine sieve without pressing.

Why it works

Fish bones are thin and their flavor comes out fast. Cooking longer than about 30 minutes draws out bitter, chalky flavors and clouds the stock.

How to use it

Use it for fish soups, chowders, paella, seafood pasta and sauces for poached fish. For bisque, cooks make a similar stock from shrimp, crab or lobster shells.

How to store it

Cool quickly and keep in the fridge for up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

Common mistakes

• Using oily fish such as salmon, mackerel or sardines, which gives a strong, greasy stock.
• Leaving in the gills, which make it bitter.
• Boiling or simmering for hours like a meat stock.
• Pressing the solids when straining, which clouds it.

In recipes

A court bouillon is a different, plainer liquid used only for poaching. Many recipes simply say "fish stock" for fumet.