Knead

To knead means to work a dough by pushing, stretching and folding it over and over. It turns a rough, shaggy mass into a smooth, elastic dough. Kneading builds gluten, the stretchy network that traps gas so bread can rise. You knead bread, pizza and pasta doughs, but not cakes or pastry.

How to do it

1. Turn the dough out onto a clean counter. Use a very light dusting of flour only if it sticks badly.
2. Push the dough away from you with the heel of your hand, stretching it out.
3. Fold the far end back over on top of itself.
4. Turn the dough a quarter turn and repeat.
5. Keep a steady rhythm for 8 to 12 minutes by hand. In a stand mixer with a dough hook, it takes 5 to 8 minutes on low to medium speed.
6. If the dough fights back and tears, cover it and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Then continue.

How to tell it is done

• The dough is smooth and slightly shiny, not lumpy.
• It springs back slowly when you poke it.
• It feels soft and tacky but does not stick to clean, dry hands.
• A small piece stretches thin enough to let light through without tearing. This is the windowpane test.

Why it works

Flour holds two proteins that link into gluten when they meet water. Kneading lines up and stretches those strands into long, strong sheets. A well-kneaded dough holds gas from the yeast, rises tall and gives an even, chewy crumb.

Common mistakes

• Adding a lot of flour to stop sticking. The dough turns stiff and the bread dense. Use a bench scraper and wet or oiled hands instead.
• Stopping too early. The bread spreads and has a coarse, crumbly texture.
• Over-kneading in a mixer at high speed. Gluten tears and the dough turns slack and sticky. This rarely happens by hand.

In recipes

"Knead until smooth and elastic" is the usual phrase. "No-knead" bread uses a wet dough and a long rise instead, and time builds the gluten. An autolyse or stretch and folds can also cut kneading down.