Ribbon stage

The ribbon stage is the point where whole eggs or yolks whisked with sugar turn pale, thick and full of air. When you lift the whisk, the mix falls back in a flat, folded ribbon that sits on top for a few seconds before it sinks in. It is the base of genoise, sponge cakes and many mousses, and a common step for custards.

How to do it

1. Put eggs and sugar in a large, clean bowl. A common ratio is 1 egg to 25 to 30 g (2 tablespoons) of sugar.
2. For a genoise, set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and whisk until the mix is warm to the touch, about 40°C (105°F). Then take it off the heat.
3. Whisk on high speed with an electric mixer or stand mixer. It usually takes 5 to 10 minutes with a mixer, much longer by hand.
4. Lower the speed for the last minute to make the bubbles smaller and more even.

How to tell it is done

• The mix has grown three to four times in volume and is pale yellow, almost cream colored.
• Lift the whisk and let the mix fall. It forms a ribbon that rests on the surface and holds its shape for 3 to 5 seconds before melting back.
• You can draw a figure 8 with the falling ribbon and see it before it fades.

Why it works

Whisking traps air in the egg. Sugar dissolves into the liquid and makes the foam thicker and more stable. Gentle warmth helps the sugar dissolve and lets the eggs hold more air. In a sponge with no baking powder, this trapped air is the only thing that makes the cake rise.

Common mistakes

• Stopping too early. If the ribbon sinks at once, keep going. The cake will be flat and dense otherwise.
• Using cold eggs. They take far longer to foam. Use eggs at room temperature.
• Folding in the flour roughly. All the air goes. Fold it in gently in two or three parts.
• Letting the bowl touch the water. The eggs start to cook.

In recipes

"Beat until thick and pale" and "whisk to the ribbon" mean the same thing. With yolks only, as in a custard or zabaglione, the ribbon is thinner but the test is the same.