Ricer

A ricer is a hand press that looks like a large garlic press. You put cooked food in a basket full of small holes, then squeeze the handles to push it through a plate. The food comes out in thin strands that look a bit like grains of rice, which gives the tool its name. It makes the smoothest, lightest mashed potatoes and is the standard tool for potato gnocchi.

How to do it

1. Boil or steam potatoes until they are fork-tender. Drain them well and let them steam dry for a minute or two.
2. While they are still hot, cut large potatoes into pieces that fit the basket. Peeling first is optional, since most of the skin stays behind in the basket.
3. Press over a bowl or straight into the pot. Lift the handle, clear out the skin, and repeat.
4. Stir in warm butter and milk or cream gently with a spatula. Season.

Why it works

Cooked potatoes are full of swollen starch granules from gelatinization. Whipping, blending or heavy mashing breaks those granules and releases starch, which makes the mash gluey. A ricer pushes the potato through once with very little shear, so the granules stay mostly whole and the mash stays fluffy.

How to use it

Other jobs for it:

• Squeeze water from cooked spinach or grated zucchini.
• Press cooked carrots, parsnips or squash into a smooth puree.
• Mash cooked egg yolks for deviled eggs or a garnish.
• Make spätzle from a thin batter by pressing it into simmering water.

Substitutes

A food mill gives the same result and handles larger batches. A drum sieve, with the potato pushed through by a scraper or the back of a spoon, also works. A hand masher gives a lumpier but acceptable mash.

Common mistakes

• Ricing potatoes after they cool. They get gluey and are hard to push through.
• Using a blender or food processor for mash. The result is like glue.
• Overfilling the basket so the handles cannot close.
• Letting food dry in the holes. Rinse right away.

In recipes

"Pass through a ricer" or "rice the potatoes" means pressing hot, cooked potatoes through this tool.