Risotto

Risotto is an Italian rice dish. Short-grain rice is fried in fat, then cooked by adding hot stock a ladle at a time while you stir. The starch from the rice thickens the liquid, so the dish turns creamy without cream. The grains stay al dente, with a slight bite in the center.

How to do it

1. Keep about 1 to 1.25 liters (4 to 5 cups) of stock at a bare simmer in a separate pot for every 300 g (1½ cups) of rice.
2. Cook a finely chopped onion or shallot in butter or oil until soft and clear.
3. Add risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli, and stir for 1 to 2 minutes until the grains are hot and coated.
4. Add a glass of white wine to deglaze and stir until it is gone.
5. Add a ladle of hot stock and stir until most is absorbed. Repeat, keeping the rice at a lively simmer. This takes 16 to 20 minutes.
6. When the rice is just al dente, take it off the heat. Beat in cold butter and grated Parmesan for a minute. This step is called mantecatura, and it works much like monter au beurre.
7. Rest for 1 to 2 minutes and serve.

How to tell it is done

The grains are tender with a small firm center. The risotto is loose enough to spread slowly into a wave when you shake the plate, called all'onda in Italian. It should not stand in a stiff mound.

Common mistakes

• Cold stock. It stops the cooking each time and makes it gluey.
• Rinsing the rice. You wash away the starch that makes it creamy.
• Adding all the stock at once. That gives a pilaf-like dish, not a risotto.
• Overcooking. The rice turns to porridge.
• Letting it sit. It keeps thickening. Serve it right away.

In recipes

Risotto is usually named after its main flavor: risotto alla milanese uses saffron, risotto ai funghi uses mushrooms. Additions are cooked separately or added near the end. Leftover risotto is often shaped into balls, filled with cheese, and fried as arancini. Cool leftovers quickly and eat them within a day, because cooked rice can carry bacteria that survive reheating.