Sauce tomate

Sauce tomate is the classic French tomato sauce and one of the five mother sauces. In Escoffier's version, tomatoes are simmered for a long time with salt pork, mirepoix, stock, herbs and a little roux, then strained. It is smoother and deeper in flavor than a quick Italian tomato sauce. Many modern cooks leave out the roux and thicken it by reduction alone.

How to do it

For about 1 liter (4 cups):

1. In a heavy pot, cook 60 g (2 ounces) of diced salt pork or bacon until the fat runs.
2. Add 1 diced onion, 1 diced carrot and 1 celery stalk. Cook until soft and lightly golden.
3. Stir in 2 tablespoons of flour if you want a classic roux base, and cook for 2 minutes.
4. Add 1.5 kg (3 pounds) of chopped ripe or canned tomatoes, 500 ml (2 cups) of chicken or veal stock, a crushed garlic clove and a bouquet garni.
5. Bring to a simmer and cook gently, partly covered, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, stirring often.
6. Remove the herbs and pass the sauce through a sieve or food mill. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar if it is sharp.

How to tell it is done

The sauce is smooth, deep red and thick enough to coat a spoon. It tastes rounded, not raw or acidic.

How to use it

Use it on its own with pasta, eggs, fish and meat, or as a base for small sauces. Add garlic, olives and herbs for provençale. Add peppers and celery for Creole sauce. For a quicker, fresher sauce, use a concassé of peeled, seeded tomatoes cooked briefly with olive oil.

How to store it

Cool it fast and keep it in the fridge for up to 4 days, or freeze it for up to 3 months.

Common mistakes

• Cooking it over high heat, so it scorches on the bottom. Tomato sauces catch easily.
• Under-seasoning. Tomatoes need salt to taste of themselves.
• Skipping the straining step when you want a smooth sauce.