Capers

Capers are the unopened flower buds of the caper bush, which grows wild around the Mediterranean. The buds are bitter when picked, so they are cured in salt or pickled in brine or vinegar. They taste salty, sour and slightly floral, and a few go a long way.

How to use it

• Rinse first. Brined capers can go straight in, but a quick rinse tones down the vinegar. Salt-packed capers need a rinse and a 10-minute soak in cold water, or the dish ends up too salty.
• Chop them into salsa verde, tartar sauce, remoulade and tartare.
• Add them whole to pasta puttanesca, chicken or veal piccata, potato salad and fish dishes. Stir them in near the end so they keep their shape and bite.
• Fry them. Pat dry and shallow-fry in a little oil over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes until they open like small flowers and turn crisp. Use them as a crunchy, salty topping.

Size matters. The smallest capers, called nonpareil, are firm and delicate. Larger ones are softer and stronger. Caper berries are the fruit that grows after the flower, about the size of an olive, with a long stem. They are served whole with drinks or cured meats, not chopped into sauces.

Substitutes

• Chopped green olives, the closest in salt and texture.
• Chopped cornichons or other small sour pickles.
• A little lemon zest and a pinch of salt, when you only need brightness.

How to store it

Unopened jars keep for a long time in the cupboard. Once opened, keep them in the fridge and make sure the capers stay under the brine. They will last for months this way. Salt-packed capers keep in the cupboard as long as they stay dry.

Common mistakes

• Adding capers and then salting the dish as usual. Taste after the capers go in and season after that.
• Cooking them for a long time. They lose their shape and bright taste. Add them in the last few minutes.