Meringue

Meringue is a foam of egg whites and sugar whipped until thick and glossy. You can bake it slowly until crisp for pavlova and meringue cookies, spread it soft on lemon pie and toast it, or fold it into mousses and soufflés. There are three main kinds: French, Swiss and Italian.

How to do it

French meringue, the simplest:

1. Use a spotless glass or metal bowl. Wipe it with a little lemon juice or vinegar to remove any grease.
2. Whip 4 egg whites on medium speed until foamy.
3. Add ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar or a few drops of lemon juice, if you have it.
4. When the whites reach soft peaks, add 200 g (1 cup) superfine sugar (caster sugar in the UK), one spoonful at a time.
5. Whip on high until the meringue is thick, glossy and at stiff peaks.
6. Bake at 100 to 120°C (210 to 250°F) for 1 to 2 hours, depending on size, then cool in the turned-off oven.

For Swiss meringue, warm the whites and sugar over simmering water to 70°C (160°F), stirring, then whip until cool. For Italian, pour sugar syrup heated to 118°C (245°F) into whipping whites.

How to tell it is done

Rub a little between your fingers. It should feel smooth, not gritty. The meringue stands in stiff, shiny peaks. Baked meringues lift cleanly off the paper and sound hollow when tapped.

Why it works

Whipping unfolds the proteins in egg white so they wrap around air bubbles. Sugar dissolves into the thin film around each bubble and makes it thicker and more stable. Acid strengthens the proteins further. Heat in the oven or from hot syrup sets the foam.

How to store it

Store crisp meringues in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Do not refrigerate them, as they turn soft.

Common mistakes

• Any fat in the bowl or a trace of yolk. The whites will not foam.
• Adding sugar too early or too fast. You get a runny, low foam.
• Undissolved sugar. Baked meringues weep sticky beads of syrup.
• Baking too hot. They brown and crack instead of staying white and crisp.
• Making meringue on a humid day. It soaks up moisture and turns sticky.