Preserved lemon

Preserved lemons are whole lemons cured in salt and their own juice for several weeks. The salt softens the rind and takes away its bitterness, leaving a silky peel with a salty, floral and deep lemon taste. They are a staple of Moroccan cooking, where they flavor tagines, salads and sauces.

How to do it

1. Scrub 6 unwaxed lemons. Cut each into quarters from the top, stopping about 1 cm (½ inch) from the base so the pieces stay joined.
2. Pack about 1 tablespoon of coarse salt into each lemon.
3. Press the lemons tightly into a clean jar, squashing them so the juice runs out.
4. Top up with fresh lemon juice until they are fully covered. Close the lid.
5. Leave at room temperature for 3 to 4 weeks, turning the jar every day or two.

How to tell it is done

The rind is soft enough to cut with a spoon and has turned translucent. The juice looks cloudy and slightly thick.

How to use it

Take out a piece, rinse off the salt and scrape away the pulp. Most recipes use only the rind, chopped finely. The pulp can go into a stew, but it is very salty.

• Add strips of rind to chicken and olive tagines in the last part of cooking.
• Chop it into couscous, grain salads, dressings or salsa.
• Stir it into yogurt with garlic and herbs as a sauce for lamb or fish.
• Use it in place of fresh zest in a gremolata.

Substitutes

There is no quick way to copy the flavor. For a rough stand-in, mix finely grated zest of 1 lemon with a pinch of salt and a squeeze of juice. It is sharper and brighter, so use a little less.

How to store it

Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge with the lemons under the liquid. They keep for months, up to about a year. A harmless white film can form on top. Rinse it off. Throw the jar out if you see fuzzy mold.

Common mistakes

• Forgetting to taste for salt. Add preserved lemon first and season afterwards.
• Using waxed lemons, which do not cure well and taste of the coating.