Until wilted

"Until wilted" tells you to cook leafy greens just until they go limp and shrink down, while staying bright green. You wilt spinach, chard, kale, cabbage, arugula (rocket in the UK) and fresh herbs. Greens shrink a lot as they wilt. A full pan of raw spinach cooks down to a few spoonfuls.

How to do it

1. Wash the greens and spin or shake them dry. A salad spinner works well.
2. Remove tough stems from kale and chard. Slice chard stems and cook them a few minutes first.
3. Heat a little oil or butter in a wide pan over medium-high heat.
4. Add the greens a handful at a time, stirring or tossing with tongs. Add the next handful as the first one shrinks.
5. Add a pinch of salt and a spoonful of water if the pan looks dry.
6. Cook until just wilted, then take them off the heat.

Typical times once the greens are all in:

• Baby spinach, arugula, herbs: 30 seconds to 1 minute.
• Mature spinach, chard leaves: 1 to 3 minutes.
• Kale, collards, cabbage: 3 to 6 minutes.

How to tell it is done

The leaves have collapsed and look soft and glossy. They are a deeper, brighter green than when raw. Kale and cabbage should be tender but still have a little bite.

Why it works

Heat softens the cell walls in the leaves and lets water escape. The leaves lose their stiffness and fold down. Short cooking keeps the green color. Long cooking, or adding acid early, turns them olive and dull.

Common mistakes

• Overcooking. Greens turn slimy and gray and release lots of water.
• Not drying the leaves. The pan fills with water and the greens stew.
• Adding all the greens at once to a small pan. Work in batches or use a lid for 30 seconds to help them collapse.
• Adding lemon juice or vinegar while they cook. Add acid at the very end, just before serving.

In recipes

"Stir in the spinach until wilted" is the classic last step for soups, curries and pasta sauces. The heat of the dish does the work, so add the greens at the end. You can also steam greens or sauté them on their own as a side dish.