Eggplant

Eggplant is a large, glossy fruit used as a vegetable, usually deep purple but also white, striped or pale green. Raw, it is spongy and bland. Cooked well, it turns soft, creamy and silky and takes on the flavor of oil, spices and smoke. It is used in ratatouille, moussaka, curries, stir-fries and dips such as baba ghanoush.

How to do it

To roast:

1. Cut the eggplant into 2 to 3 cm (1 inch) cubes or thick slices.
2. Toss with enough olive oil to coat, and salt.
3. Spread on a tray in one layer and roast at 220°C (425°F) for 25 to 35 minutes, turning once, until golden and very soft.

For a smoky dip, char a whole eggplant over a gas flame, on a grill or under a broiler (grill in the UK) until the skin is black and the inside collapses, about 15 to 20 minutes. Scoop out the flesh.

How to tell it is done

The flesh is soft all the way through and creamy, with no white, spongy patches. A knife slides in with no resistance. Undercooked eggplant squeaks and tastes bitter.

How to use it

The same vegetable has different names:

• Eggplant in the US, Canada and Australia.
• Aubergine in the UK, Ireland, France and Sweden (aubergine).
• Brinjal in India and South Africa, and baingan in Hindi, as in baingan bharta.
• Melanzana in Italy, plural melanzane, as in melanzane alla parmigiana.

Long, thin Asian eggplants have thinner skin, fewer seeds and cook faster. They are good in stir-fries and curries. Smoky eggplant dips are part of most mezze tables.

How to store it

Keep eggplant in a cool spot or the warmest part of the fridge and use it within 3 to 4 days. It bruises easily and goes soft and brown inside if kept too long or too cold.

Common mistakes

• Undercooking it. Eggplant needs more time than most vegetables.
• Pan-frying slices in a little oil at a time. Eggplant soaks it up like a sponge. Roast or broil it instead, or salt it first: sprinkle with salt, leave 30 minutes, then pat dry. That draws out water so it absorbs less oil.
• Picking old, heavy-seeded eggplants. Choose firm, shiny ones that feel heavy for their size, with green caps.

In recipes

You will see "1 large eggplant, cubed", "2 aubergines, sliced lengthways" and "baby eggplants, halved".