Wok

A wok is a deep, bowl-shaped pan with sloped sides, from China and used across East and Southeast Asia. Most are thin carbon steel, which heats fast and becomes nonstick once seasoned. The shape gives a very hot spot at the bottom and cooler sides, so you can sear food in the center and push it up the sides. It is the pan for a stir-fry, and it also works for steaming, deep-frying, braising and smoking.

How to do it

To season a new carbon steel wok:

1. Scrub off the factory coating with hot soapy water and steel wool. Dry it.
2. Heat it over high heat, turning it, until the metal changes color, often to blue-gray or bronze.
3. Rub a thin layer of oil over the inside with a folded paper towel held in tongs.
4. Stir-fry onions or scallions with a little oil for a few minutes over medium-high heat, then discard them. Repeat the oil step a few times.

To stir-fry:

1. Prepare everything first. Stir-frying takes minutes.
2. Heat the wok until a drop of water evaporates in a second or two, then add oil.
3. Add aromatics, then meat in small batches. Velvet chicken or pork first for a soft texture.
4. Keep food moving with a wok spatula. Add sauce last.

How to store it

Rinse with hot water and scrub with a soft brush. Use little or no soap. Dry it over the burner, then wipe on a few drops of oil. Store it dry.

Common mistakes

• Overcrowding. A home stove cannot reheat the wok fast enough and the food stews. Cook in batches of a few handfuls.
• Using a round-bottomed wok on a flat electric or induction stove. It wobbles and does not heat. Use a flat-bottomed wok.
• Choosing a nonstick wok for a stir-fry. The coating is not made for the high heat a stir-fry needs.
• Cooking acidic sauces for a long time in a new wok. They strip the seasoning.
• Letting it rust by leaving it wet.

In recipes

"Heat the wok until smoking" means very hot, with a wisp of smoke as the oil goes in. Without a wok, a large carbon steel pan or cast iron skillet is the best swap. The smoky taste of restaurant stir-fries is called wok hei, "the breath of the wok".